The spring narcissus bloom in Switzerland’s riviera region, a star tourist attraction of the Belle Epoque – the 30 to 40 years before the war in 1914 – was described as the “snow of May” by Ernest Hemingway in his novel A Farewell to Arms. The book is about two lovers who reunite in Switzerland to escape the war. The fields of white flowers allude to peace, renewal and beauty, contrasting the hardship and chaos of war.
While the flower bloom is not as plentiful as it once was – the effects of farming, farm chemicals and urbanisation – it remains a spectacle. And the small window where the hillsides turn white with narcissus (often referred to in English as a white daffodil) is approaching once more.
One of the best places to see these stunning flowers is at Les Pleiades above Vevey. The region takes the flower very seriously. There is an association for the preservation of the narcissus, the Association pour la sauvegarde et la promotion des narcisses de la Riviera.
The name of this flower comes from the narcissistic youth of Greek mythology, Narkissos. This poisonous plant can be used to make medicine for whooping cough, colds, and asthma. It is also sometimes used in medications to treat wounds, burns, and joint pain.
These photographs were taken in May 2015 at Les Pleiades in the communes of Blonay and St-Légier near Vevey and Montreux, Switzerland.
There is a walk of around one and a half hours, which starts in the Motalles parking area near Les Pleiades taking you in a loop past fields thick with narcissus. It has a few energetic climbs so you need to be reasonably fit to complete the circuit. Click here for a map showing the route. The blue P symbol on this map is the Motalles car park. It can be reached by driving up from the village of Blonay, a journey of about 15 minutes from the village. Not far the car park is the restaurant Le 1209.
Another option is to catch the rack and pinion train from Blonay to Les Pleiades. From the final stop you can join the circuit shown in the map above and return by train. You will find train information here.
The flowers appear in late April/early May. Although, this year (2024) they are behind schedule and are largely yet to bloom. The webcam at the highest train stop gives an up to date view.
Guided tours are organised by the Association Narcisses Riviera. Booking is essential.
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